Bungles, cost-of-living pressures and sperm shortages are only some of the reasons Australians are fleeing the regulated system. But what awaits them in the “Wild West”?

It’s the most exclusive room in New South Wales’ food scene, a rare opportunity to mingle with movers and shakers. So how do you get in?

Catch up on our live coverage of the SMH Good Food Guide Awards ceremony at Carriageworks.